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The wines of Oregon are often compared with those of the Burgundy region of France. This has nothing to do with the vineyards themselves, but more to do with the frustratingly unreliable climate and the variety in quality of its wines, where the most expensive aren’t necessarily the best. The biggest similarity, however, is at the top end of the market, where a great Oregon Pinot Noir, like a great Burgundy, is simply unsurpassable!
Background to wine production in Oregon:
Vines have been cultivated along the Oregon Trail, as far back as the mid-nineteenth century. It was not until the late 1950s, however, that Oregon’s modern wine industry gained momentum. The visionary producers of that period, who came to Oregon from California, focussed their efforts on the Willamette Valley and more specifically, on perfecting cultivation of the Pinot Noir grape.
Original pioneering vineyards include the Hillcrest Vineyards of Roseburg, established in 1959, followed by the Eyrie Vineyards, in 1966, in the Willamette Valley.
Today, Oregon State has 168 licensed wineries and in excess of 11,000 acres, in total, planted with wine grapes.
The regions:
Oregon’s major AVA (American Viticultural Area) is the Willamette Valley, near Portland. Other AVAs include Umpqua Valley and Rogue Valley.
Climate and Territory:
Although Oregon’s general climate is cool, the coast to the west and the Cascade Mountains to the east, prevent the occurrence of extreme climatic conditions.
North Willamette Valley typifies Oregon’s “marine” climate. The area’s northern latitude benefits from the direct effects of the Pacific Ocean, with long, cool autumns, wet winters and dry summers. Such an environment is ideal for the gradual ripening of “Vitis Vinifera” grape varieties. The deep, well-irrigated soil of the region’s vineyards, which are planted mainly on the south-facing, volcanic hillsides of the North Willamette Valley, provide perfect terroir for the Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, and Riesling grapes to flourish. More recently, the Pinot Gris and Pinot Blanc varieties have been added to the successful repertoire of the vineyards of the North Willamette Valley.
The slightly drier and warmer South Willamette Valley region, with its predominantly clay soil, also offers good growing conditions for the Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Riesling grapes.
By comparison, the warm Umpqua Valley enjoys a much drier climate, where rainfall is as low as twenty inches per year. This region’s sandstone and loamy soils support a wide variety of grape varieties, including Pinot Noir, Riesling, Cabernet Sauvignon, Sauvignon Blanc and Zinfandel.
The Rogue Valley has three different microclimates: Illinois, Applegate and Rogue River Valley. In fact, the climatic conditions of Illinois Valley are very similar to those of the Burgundy region of France.
Grape Varieties:
Pinot Noir is the main red variety and Chardonnay the main white grape variety grown in Oregon. Other reds include Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Zinfandel; other whites – Riesling, Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Gris, Pinot Blanc, Sémillon and Gewürztraminer.
Characteristics of the main red grape varieties:
Pinot Noir: Pinot Noir, drunk young and fresh, has delicious, light raspberry and cherry fruit flavours. If allowed to age, a decent quality Pinot Noir will take on a more complex, earthy and leathery character, with flavours of mellow fruit, spice, cinnamon and pepper.
Cabernet Sauvignon: Grown mainly in the Umpqua River and Rogue Valleys, this grape variety produces wines with a deep rich colour. They typically have a distinctive flavour of ripe berries; sometimes with overtones of herbs and spices.
Characteristics of the main white grape varieties:
Chardonnay: In general, Oregon’s Chardonnays have a well-balanced acidity and a crisp, lean and firm style. The Chardonnay grape produces wines with subtle fruity flavours and hints of toastiness and oak.
Sauvignon Blanc: Although pale in colour, it produces some pleasantly warm grassy flavoured wines that are capable of aging well in the bottle.
Pinot Gris: Similar to Chardonnay, Pinot Gris produces wines of a delightful rounded, fruity character - occasionally, with overtones of oak and exotic spices.
Riesling: Oregon’s fresh tasting Rieslings have distinctive flavours of peaches, apricots and apples. Some of its Rieslings have a noble hint of steeliness.
Oregon State Appellations: The Oregon wine industry adheres to strict state regulations for wine production. Its appellations are federally recognised and designated and in true world wine tradition, are defined according to small geographical regions. Varietal labelled wines must be made entirely from fruit grown in the region of origin stated on the label. It is also mandatory that the wine is produced from at least 90% of the named variety. The exception is Cabernet Sauvignon, which only requires a minimum 75% content.
A few suggestions of wineries to look out for:
Amity Vineyards – famous for delicious, cherry ripe Pinot Noirs and dry, spicy Gewürztraminers.
Elk Cove – this winery in the north west of the Willamette valley is well known for its rich, smooth Pinot Noirs.
Erath Vineyards - produces consistently high quality Pinot Noirs, Chardonnays and Pinot Noirs.
Eyrie Vineyards – well known since the early 70s for quality Pinot Noirs – also some fine whites, including Chardonnays and Pinot Gris.
Since the impressive resurgence of Oregon’s wine industry in the early 60s, its reputation has gone from strength to strength. The state’s unique terroir and climate and favourable clay-loam soils have certainly played a crucial rôle in its emergence as one of the finest wine growing regions of the world.
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