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Once the thrill of travel gets into your blood, it's with you always. You can try to ignore it, even for long periods of time, but it will haunt you and taunt you and eventually, you'll succomb once more. Costa Rica is the perfect place to indulge that hunger.
Imagine this, if you will. You are exploring Costa Rica by car (4 wheel drive, of course) Your travels have unveiled for you many exquisite and exotic discoveries. After escaping the hectic pace of San Jose you are free to explore the diversity of flora and fauna, rainforest, volcano, and beach. The rainforest proved to be glorious and alive, teeming with howler monkeys, exotic butterflies and the occasional snake. Your beach cottage was a relaxing break and you mastered a sit-atop kayak in the waves, and even became friendly with that iguana who lounged on the roof.
Further south, that cute, but funky, cold water cabina was entertaining in the first light of dawn when the monkeys descended from the mango trees and began hurling half eaten fruit at the screened-in windows. But somewhere along the way the freedom of the road suddenly takes its toll on your aching bones and nerve-wracked brain. You've learned that maps are oddly insufficient and undependable and the 2' deep potholes have imbedded themselves into your consciousness and your tailbone.
Finally, even though you've been surrounded with a veritable Garden of Eden, the food has proven time and again to be exceptionally bland, boring, and you've tired of choosing between the red or white Concha y Toro wine, both awful, or the equally uninspiring local beer. You've eaten a lot of beans and rice and plantains, all without salsa, Tabasco, or garlic. A dull ennui has set in and you need a serious and invigorating break.
Suddenly, an overwhelming desire overcomes you. A hunger for a magical environment where everything you see, eat, drink, and touch is wonderful! Art! Music! Pampering, starting with a fabulous meal, an extraordinary wine, glorious views from your own soft, cool silky sheets. Now, is that too much to ask for? Aw heck, you say, 'I wouldn't know where to go for it.'
Then suddenly, you see a sweeping driveway leading uphill on the ocean side, and a simple sign states "Villa Caletas". A low stone wall accentuated with classic planters leads you up the winding drive to a stunning villa. Mesmerized, you follow your instincts that tell you, this feels really promising. As you arrive at the gate, you glimpse bungalows perched on the cliffs' edge, heavy with the growth of bougainvillea , fuchsias, and thick greenery . The hotel is surrounded by gardens and you glimpse an amphitheater at the cliffs' edge as you enter the terra cotta tiled entryway. Tasteful artwork and Renaissance antiques are perfectly mingled with black wicker furniture and Oriental rugs. It feels as though you've just stepped into the pages of Architectural Digest. Of course you will immediately book a room, or, better yet, a bungalow. The bell boy has already unloaded the filthy rental car and is understanding, smiling, and waiting to direct you to your dream bungalow. Down a narrow stone path overgrown with dense green fragrance, you arrive at your door and are awed by the light, airy and exquisitely decorated room. Turn-of-the-century ambiance meets French, Italian, and colonial, in perfect style. The black wrought iron bed is placed to perfect advantage for the incredible view of the Pacific Ocean, 1150 feet below. The room is spacious, with cool tile floors, sumptuous pillows, double sink bathroom with open shower/tub. It makes perfect sense that all of the grey water from sink and shower goes immediately outside and runs down the side of the hill, giving more life to the already lush foliage that cascades forever downhill to the beach below.
Leaving your bungalow, freshly showered and immensely happy, you feel a child-like anticipation at what awaits you up above. Dinner will, of course, be fabulous, and most certainly you'll enjoy a satisfying beverage, maybe even dessert. But you are not prepared for the treat that awaits you at the Greek amphitheatre, complete with Corinthian columns. Its placement at exactly the perfect latitude on the side of the steep hill takes your breath away. Very carefully, you ease your giddy self down a few rows of the stone benches and give yourself up to the magnificent ocean sunset as it sheds a million shades of pink and lavender into the heavens. You sip a heavenly glass of champagne, and somewhere below, a guitar is gently strumming the perfect accompaniment to the distant humming of the tides below. Truly, I have experienced all of this exactly as I've described, and I have not captured any of its true beauty. There is a an evocative spirit of peace, elegance and beauty. Not a single thing here is artificial or forced.
Of course, your meal is superb, the wine divine, and the service gracious and personal without artificiality. A family of coatimundi come out to beg at the edges of the open air restaurant. It would be impossible to stay only one night here. Your sleep is interrupted only by the moonlight passing across your bed, and you return to slumber lulled by the gentle sound of the ocean below.
The beach is difficult to access, but breathtakingly beautiful. Since my visit, the hotel has provided a shuttle service on the 4 wd road to and from the beach. The swimming pool is equally wonderful, and designed with natural rock facings, waterfall and a tropical plant island. The alignment of this pool is in perfect synchronicity with the horizon, creating an effect of perfect blending with the oceans' vast calm. This is the heaven you have needed in order to recharge, and you won't want to leave soon at all.
If you do decide you want to explore the area, Villa Caletas offers tours and excursions including trips to Carara Biological Reserve, Jaco Beach, Playa Blanca, Punta Leon, Manuel Antonio National Park, Quepos, Herradura Beach, Tortuga Island, and a variety of activities such as horseback riding, boating, fishing, scuba diving, snorkeling, and jet skiing. San Jose is a few hours away by car if you choose to drive, but the Villa does provide airport shuttle service. Rates will vary depending on the season. A bungalow such as the one I stayed in will run between $136-160. Rooms in the main hotel start at $116, and larger, more elaborate suites are available for up to $300. Meals are extra, and non guests are welcome in the restaurant. This would be a fabulous honeymoon destination, as well as a perfect hideaway for a few days. To contact Villa Caletas directly, you can call toll free 1-800-948-3770.
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